My First High Holidays in the Holy Land, October 2016

My First High Holidays in the Holy Land, October 2016

I am posting this on December 18, three months after we celebrated Rosh Hashana, Yom Kippur and Sucot. I apologize for the delay. Life has been a bit too hectic to sit down and write. All this means that I have much to share with you, so please bear with me. I trust that my memory will serve me well and allow me to share the highlights of my first ever High Holidays in the Holy Land.

On Rosh Hashana

Pomegranate Juice Elixir Before Rosh Hashana

Pomegranate Juice Vendor

The spirit of High Holidays started to flow several weeks before the “Hagim” (celebrations.) On the streets, shopping malls and stores, the anticipation was evident. I noticed increased traffic, more merchandise, clients, food, baking, blessings and cheers.

At the Ulpan our teacher discussed the Holidays with the students, and I was a bit shocked to discover that many of my Russian classmates did not know the basics. To make sense of this, I thought that perhaps the previous generation of Russian Jews were not allowed to practice their religion and as a consequence their descendants got the matza ball soup very diluted, or no matza balls in the soup at all. I then learned that many of my classmates were not brought up Jewish, and their Aliyah was granted on one basis only: having Jewish ancestry, period.  But, how come? Doesn’t Jewish law dictate that the womb determines eligibility to be considered a Jew? When I asked a reliable source, I heard a marvellous explanation that gave me the shivers.  The Nazis exterminated anyone whose ancestry was remotely Jewish, even back generations. Israel’s Aliyah law took this very seriously, and applied the same selection, except for claiming life. Unlike religious law, Aliyah selection states:  If a Jew was chosen to be killed for his remote Jewish ancestry, then he/she then shall also be chosen to live in Israel and become an integral part of the Jewish Peoplehood!  This realization threw me into a WOW state of admiration.

Ulpan Achva Class Aleph, Rishon Letzion, Rosh Hashana 2016

I spent the eve of Rosh Hashana at Leah, one of Yaffa’s sisters. She hosted approximately 20+ family members, the table was very festive, the food was plentiful, but I confess that I missed being home with my own. I noticed that following the blessings for the bread and the wine there was nothing more to indicate that it was Rosh Hashana. People just delved into the food like wolves, without any order, pacing or sharing. I ate at my pace, but remained hungry for more meaning for the holiday, and it did not come. It was obvious to me that the focus was the food, perhaps the gathering, but certainly not the holiday and its significance.

Rosh Hashana's Tables at Leah

The first day of Rosh Hashana was interesting. I stayed over at Yaffa so that in the morning I would be able to walk to a service near her home. Weeks earlier, I had established a connection with Rabbi Tamara Shifrin, who leads the Reform Congregation Ahavat Olam in Rishon Letzion. While I enjoyed the gender equality, simplicity and intimacy of the service, I missed my family, my seat at Temple Sholom, the tunes, the sermon, and the congregation. The service was nice, but not special, as I expected. I was discouraged that the Rabba did not acknowledge me or made an attempt to introduce me to the group. I thought it a contradiction that in Israel the holidays felt watered down, while we Jews in the Diaspora really take the time to acknowledge the rituals and symbols. When I returned home to Yaffa, I shared with her my disappointment. She made me aware that it was a bad idea to have expectations and make comparisons between two cultures/countries.  While I agreed with her, my feelings prevailed. 


As to the rest of the day, Yaffa’s family organized a BBQ at the Beach. Can you imagine?  A BBQ on Rosh Hashana? You have to remember, it was still summer in Israel even though we were in October. The plan was to gather at the beach in the early afternoon, but the actual meeting did not take place until 9:00 pm.  By then, I was tired, starved and confused. Yaffa and I made our way down to the beach in Rishon Letzion around 5pm, and my fatigue melted away when I found myself in front of the ocean, then the sunset, and took in the experience of seeing countless families gathered around picnic tables sharing a meal. I thought this was a very unique way to celebrate the Day of Rosh Hashana. Only in Israel!

BBQ Night at Rishon Letzion Beachfront

Rosh Hashana Sunset, October 4, 2016

On Yom Kippur

If you think that Rosh Hashana was interesting, wait and see what happened to me, rather, what I made happen to me on Yom Kippur.

Having learned my lesson on Rosh Hashana, I decided to seek out a more meaningful experience in Israel on Yom Kippur. I was clear. I wanted a proper service, a congregation, a day of fasting, and the spirit of the holiest day of the Jewish calendar. I certainly did not want to end up in someone’s home waiting for break-the-fast, or in an orthodox service where women “pray/talk” isolated from the service, the Bimah (sanctuary), the Torah, the prayers, no way!  In short, I needed to find a Reform Congregation. Not everyone knows that the Reform Movement is the largest Jewish religious movement in North America, yet in Israel it is still quite small. The reason is obvious. Orthodoxy does not “yet” recognize any expression of Judaism that is not orthodox. I am grateful that there is, in fact, a Reform Movement in Israel, one that is gaining momentum as Israeli Jews move from secularism to religious involvement and a return to the marvellous traditions of the Jewish heritage. 

When I located Bet Daniel, the Reform Congregation at the center of TA, I inquired about services and possible accommodation nearby given my lack of transportation. In Israel, during Shabbat and Jewish holidays public transportation is non-existent. The staff informed me that they did not have an option for me, but recommended that I attend services at their sister congregation in Yafo, given that services are held at their own Ruth Daniel Residence where I could stay overnight.  After I contacted Rabbi Mira Raz of Kehilat Daniel in Yafo, she not only invited me to services, but also assisted me to book a room at Ruth Daniel for a reduced fee.  I was thrilled to have everything worked out for myself. I was proud of my sense of independence and initiative, but I made a major mistake. I did not bother to check the bus schedule as I assumed that buses would run until 3pm, as they normally do on Shabbat. Being the clean freak that I am, I decided to clean my place in the morning. After all, it was Yom Kippur and I must have believed in my subconscious that G-d would punish me if I left my home beyond spotless on that holy day. You can now anticipate what is coming.  I left the home at 2:30 pm to catch the train. On my short walk to the train station I had a funny feeling that something was wrong. The streets were totally deserted, and I saw no buses running. As I approached the train station, the reality hit me like a rock. The train station was closed. It had been closed for over one hour. But what was I thinking!  It was Yom Kippur in Israel!!! I got angry with myself for being so stupid. After my self-condemnation reached a dead end, I Sat on a bench to think my next move. Go home? Get a taxi? What would I eat? How would I pray? Would I fast alone in my apartment? Would Bet Daniel refund me the money? As the thoughts swarmed my head, I decided to call a taxi. I tried several companies. Some did not answer and two did, yet the attendant laughed at my request for a pickup in Be’er Yaacob: “Madam, did you know that it is Yom Kippur today?”  As I was calling, a call came into me. It was a taxi driver that caught the search nearby.  He offered to pick me up within 20 minutes and take me to my destination in TA. I hesitated. He said he would charge me 200 NIS = $68 Canadian. I said I would call him back, while I gave myself a few extra beatings.  When he called back, I said yes. I figured that this was a special time, and spending Yom Kippur in my basement was not an option. I then made my way to Tel Aviv, in angst of the expense, but also in anticipation of my experiencing Yom Kippur in a Reform Congregation.  I got to the Ruth Daniel Residence on Jerusalem Street in Yafo. The building is located inside a circular plaza, not to be missed. I saw that the area was busy with lots of Israeli Arabs and became a bit uneasy. When I checked in, the receptionist laughed when I asked if the restaurant was open. It was almost 4:00pm.  He said, “Leave your luggage here, and run to the corner to get some food.” How was I to start a 24-hour fast without a proper meal?  While I walked the busy street, I realized that I was amongst Arabs. I took a deep breath and prayed.  All the small restaurants were closed.  Finally I saw a lady holding a glass labeled “Aroma,” the chain coffee shop. She gave me instructions to get there. As I got into the café, they too were closing. The attendant, also an Arab, announced that the kitchen was closed. I begged him to get me a salad or a sandwich, but he said there was none. This was my fate. My meal before the fast consisted in a café latte, and two pieces of baking. I feared I would starve or faint, but I didn’t.

Ruth Daniel Residence, Yafo

The entire ordeal faded away as I experienced a welcoming environment, an intimate congregation, and a welcoming rabbi.  That night I attended Kol Nidrei services and slept like a baby in the comfortable and spacious suite. I spent the next day in synagogue, wearing the new Tallit I had bought in Tzfat when Nadia visited, and got a few compliments, even from the Rabbi. When I told her it was my first Tallit and my first time wearing it, she offered me an Aliyah to the Torah, an honor that hit a cord in my heart.  During the afternoon break I walked to the Yafo Port. I watched non-Jewish people bathing, eating, playing, while I was fasting. The Yafo shoreline, the breeze and the horizon fed me from within, with mouthfuls of hope and gratitude. I was far from my daughters, but they were with me all along.

I was so thrilled with my Yom Kippur experience, that I posted this message in the Beit Daniel Facebook Page:

"This Yom Kippur, my first ever in the Land of Israel, was particularly meaningful. I gave myself a real treat by reserving a room at the Ruth Daniel Residence, all in order to attend services at the Kehilat Daniel in Yafo, a congregation I did not know much about. Rabbi Mira Ras welcomed me open-heartedly and I was able to feel connected in prayer to my Israeli bretheren, something that cannot be said when I attended services in non-egalitarian synagogues.  While the prayerbook did not offer English translation, my familiarity with the Reform Sidur allowed me to understand, follow and take part in the flow of the solemn Yom Kippur service.  I loved the voice of the cantor, Shimon Smith, who led the service with great gusto, energy and confidence.While some of the tunes were new to me, Shimon gave them wings with  beautiful harmonizations.  I am grateful to the Rabbi Ras, Shimon Smith, and all the congregants for a memorable Yom Kippur in the land of my dreams."

When Yom Kippur was over I had an unexpected surprise. As I greeted a couple behind me, I learned they were from South Africa. We started talking and connecting, and at the end of our chat I got invited to break the Fast in their upscale apartment in Yafo.  Here is the thing, had I been in Vancouver chances are I would have broken the fast in the home of my South African friends. Here I was, in Yafo, Tel Aviv, in the company of South African brethren, eating Babka.

I had no regrets.

On Sucot

A few days after Yom Kippur, the Jewish calendar kicked in the Festival of Sucot that lasts eight days. During the holiday, I experienced several meals in the Suca, an evening of celebration organized by the City of Rishon Letzion, featuring music, family entertainment, vendors and food booths.

Sucot Festival Night at Rishon Letzion City Square

I was  pleasantly surprised to receive a call from Igal, of my Spanish students inviting me to his Moshab to celebrate Sucot in the Suca that he himself built.  He said that he wanted me to be his "Ushpitzin" (Suca guest.) Although I was thrilled with his invitation, I was unable to attend given my lack of public transportation during holiday closures.  I am aware that Igal works with the Israeli Government in matters of national security.  Being fluent in Arabic, I suspect his work his highly classified.  Wow!  Here is the photo of his Suca that he shared with me.

Suca at My Student's Moshab

On the Sucot weekend I joined Yaffa’s family on a picnic at a park in Nes Tziona, a nearby city.  Her family members brought many pieces of meat for the BBQ and the women brought salads.  The food was plentiful and shared very informally.  During this picnic some of Yaffa’s nieces and nephews, ranging from age 7 to 22 started to connect with me and I with them. This made me feel very happy.

During the Festival I decided to travel on my own to Jerusalem to visit The Kotel (The Wailing Wall).  I had not stepped foot there since my arrival, and felt that my visit was long overdue.  It is hard to describe what I felt as I approached the Kotel, a placed swamped with people from all over the world.  The day before the news reported that thousands of observant worshipers made their way to the Holy Site to observe a Sucot tradition, and that it was near to impossible to approach the wall. I was grateful that the day of my visit I could circulate and with persistence I made may way through the curtain of women bodies until I reached the wall and was able to lean on it for about twenty minutes.  My journey is pretty well illustrated below.  

There were several young volunteers from all over the world inviting visitors to make the blessings over the Lulav and Etrog.  I loved being able to do it in such a holy site.  

This weekend ended up being an adventure. Taking advantage of my trip to Jerusalem, I made contact with a friend I met during a Nefesh b’Nefesh tour. She and her husband treated me for lunch, and even invited me to spend the night with them, as they wanted me to take part in a tour the next day.  

Rachel, her husband Sasson and I in downtown Jerusalem

From Jerusalem, I contacted a friend who lives in Netanya, and she too invited me to come over.  I spent the next night at her religious home.  She is a relative of a close friend of mine in Vancouver, also from Mexico, a warm, funny and spontaneous Judeo-Mexican.  Her three daughters were sweet as honey and I enjoyed meeting the family.

Yael Levy and Violeta

Sharon Levi-Frid and Violeta

I also shared a Succot brunch in the company of my Israeli family: Miriam, Avi, Elior, Eyal, Elinor and Kids. 

Brunch in Suca with Albachari's

What a busy and meaningful month of October this was. Too many holidays, too much eating and drinking, not much work done, and many opportunities to experience Israel at the holiest time of year.

The end.