November 2016 Highlights

I must say that one of the advantages of blogging is taking stock of my experiences, especially the “wow” moments that enrich my journey and make my time in Israel all that more meaningful and impacting. If anything, the awareness enhances my gratitude even more.

Here are my November’s highlights.

Ruthie in Israel

My long-time Vancouver friend Ruthie spent three great weeks in Israel. Her visit brought me much joy, fun and entertainment. Her musketeers included her nice Michal, Yaffa and her friend Yardena, and myself.  On her arrival we went to the movies to see the Israeli film “The Women’s Balcony.” The film tackled subtly the issue of male religious dominance and the plight for gender equality, but overall the footage did not impress me.  I thought that at least these issues are slowly coming to the fore, something that in the recent past would not happen. I hope for progressive thinking, gender equality and a pluralistic Israel.

During Ruthie’s stay we visited Yafo, Holon, and Ruthie’s childhood neighbourhood in Rishon Letzion, an experience that made her very happy, especially when she connected with some of the neighbours that still remember her as a child. One day, Ruthie, Michal and I had lunch at a beachside restaurant called Pepe. Although the weather was starting to turn, we sat outside and ate our meal as the sun was setting. I loved every moment.

Yaffa, Ruthie and I in Sarona

Ruthie, Yardena, Yaffa and I in Yafo 

The most enjoyable time together was when four of us, Ruthie, Michal, Yaffa and I visited Eilat. We got there by car, thanks to Michal’s offer to drive. As to accommodation, Ruthie booked us a condo reasonably priced. Driving through the desert was an awesome experience. I never got tired of the golden sandy landscape. To my amazement, on our way to Eilat we visited Timna Park, one of the most spectacular places in Israel. The park has a fascinating history, as it houses the world’s most ancient copper mines dating back to the time of Pharao Ramses of Egypt. The park covers over 60 square kilometers and is surrounded by three cliffs overlooking magnificent landscapes.

http://www.parktimna.co.il/en/

In Eilat we met Ruthie’s friend Tziky, who is a sailing master and owns two sailing boats.  Tziky and his wife Diane were very welcoming. The icing on the cake was when Tziky got us aboard his sailboat to cruise the Eilat coastline. The scenery, ocean breeze and good company were a gift. At the distance we could see the Jordanian shoreline, the flag of Jordan wavering at a distance. I found it incredible to find myself on the water and be able to see the Israeli flag on one side and the Jordanian on the other. I realized how close Israel is from its Arab neighbors. May G-d keep Israel safe, Amen, as the proximity is damned scary.

In Eilat we had two great meals out, one girls only, and the last night we treated Tziky and his wife Diane to dinner, as a small token of appreciation for taking us on his boat. 

Eilat Sunset

The rest of Ruthie’s time in Israel was sweet. She and I were able to find some alone time, reminisce about good times, and reconnect in a meaningful way. Before Ruthie left was happy to host the girls over at my home, making sure to serve guacamole, the dip that Ruthie loves.

On the last Shabbat we were all invited to Michal to bear farewell to Ruthie. I was happy to meet Michal’s husband Moshe and their three sons. I felt amongst family. It was sad to say goodbye to Ruthie, after such a meaningful and sweet time together, yet I was grateful for the good times.

Family Canvas

In my new home, I yearned for family photographs. I wanted a collage, and rather than doing patchy work, I decided to create a professional canvas. To lower the costs, I taught myself to design it, with the guidance of an art shop recommended by my landlord. It took me a while to learn the ropes of collage-making, but at the end I succeeded. I am happy to share with you my creation, now hanging on my living room wall, a constant reminder of my greatest joy, seeing the faces of my daughters, Carol and Nadia.

Completion of Ulpan Aleph

The month of November was intense, not only because of Ruthie’s visit, but also because my three-month, full-time Ulpan studies came to an end. We had two tests, oral and written. In the oral we had to tell a story in Hebrew before the principal of the school and a senior teacher. I did well because I have never been afraid to speak. While I presented, I shared with my examiners a Powerpoint titled “The Cats of Israel.”  In my story I discuss the phenomenon of wild cats all over Israel. I state that these creatures reproduce freely, own the city, and have no boss or owner to report to, a lifestyle that goes against the vein of territoriality. They liked my story and the many photographs of cats that I have been collecting since I arrived in Israel.

Before the written test, the Ulpan organized an all day educational tour in Tel Aviv. The day started at 7:45am. I cannot believe I made it, having to get up at 5:00am to make it by bus to the Ulpan on time for departure. The ride was most enjoyable, as students from various cultures mingled and shared a good time together. I sat with my new friend Rose, an ESL teacher, born in Toronto, a citizen of Brazil and now an Israeli addition. She is super kind, and we share a lot in common.  The day was long and tiring, but very enjoyable and educational.  The visit included the Itzhak Rabin Center, the Palmach Museum, the Independence Hall, the Shalom Tower, and finally, the Yaffo Port.

 https://www.touristisrael.com/yitzhak-rabin-center/9475/

http://info.palmach.org.il/

http://ihi.org.il/

http://www.migdalshalom.co.il/eng/

https://www.touristisrael.com/old-jaffa-port-namal-yafo/1568/

On the last day of Ulpan we wrote a final test. I confess I was nervous because the Hebrew grammar is challenging, and I know that I have a long way before I can say I master verb conjugation, prepositions, and even the passive voice (ughh).  The Ulpan took testing very seriously. I found the process formal and well planned.  Before and after the exam we had to sign in/out. During the exam we were supervised by a representative of the Ministry of Education.  I haven’t yet received my marks, but trust that I did ok, after all. After the test our class had a party organized by the Russian crowd. One of the students took it upon herself to bake goodies and everyone pitched in to make it a festive experience, a Siyum (conclusion) of many hours of Hebrew instruction.  Halleluya! 

After the Ulpan I slept and slept. My body needed to catch up on rest and relaxation. I really don’t like to hassle any more. 

Berlitz Two-Day Training to Teach English to Children

Before the Ulpan ended, I was urged by the Berlitz director to attend a two-day training for English instruction to children. She said that there was more and more demand for private English instruction for children, and she thought that I was the right person. While teaching children is not my forte, I thought that the more experience I put under my sleeve the better prepared I will be to welcome future work opportunities.

Israeli Folk Dancing at the Beach in Rishon Letzion

The last weekend of November was particularly enjoyable. On Friday night Yaffa and I attended services at Ahavat Olam, the Reform Congregation in Rishon, given that they had a musical Kabbalat Shabbat.  This happened during the forest fire crisis in Israel, and acknowledging the devastation and loss of life in synagogue was called for. I was happy that Rabbi Shiffrin acknowledged Yaffa and even invited her to read a passage. Yaffa loved it and was grateful.

On Saturday we both went to the beach in Rishon, as during the Winter months there is folk dancing outdoors.   did not know what to expect. The sun was still shining, even though the wind was cool. I watched approximately 100 middle-aged people dancing under a blue tent; the familiar and unfamiliar Israeli tunes, and the park-like beach setting threw me into a state of romance. In the surrounding area, children played in playgrounds, and others sat on benches to observe the dancers and take in the last warm days of fall. 

Barbara and Michael Heller’s Visit

My friend Barbara Heller from Vancouver, a magnificent weaving artist, also a congregant of Temple Sholom, alerted me on Facebook on her upcoming visit to Israel in the hopes that we could meet.  I was thrilled to see her and Michael on their last day in Israel.  I cannot believe that they made time to visit before their departure.  I enjoyed very much seeing them both, learning about their plans to create a home-base in Israel, and catch up on Vancouver and Israel news.  I have much admiration for Barbara for the magnificent artwork she is creating, loaded with narrative. I invite you to take a look at her website. I think she needs to be famous worldwide!

http://barbaraheller.ca/the-artist/

Thank God, the month of November brought good endings and promised new beginnings.

The end.

My First High Holidays in the Holy Land, October 2016

My First High Holidays in the Holy Land, October 2016

I am posting this on December 18, three months after we celebrated Rosh Hashana, Yom Kippur and Sucot. I apologize for the delay. Life has been a bit too hectic to sit down and write. All this means that I have much to share with you, so please bear with me. I trust that my memory will serve me well and allow me to share the highlights of my first ever High Holidays in the Holy Land.

On Rosh Hashana

Pomegranate Juice Elixir Before Rosh Hashana

Pomegranate Juice Vendor

The spirit of High Holidays started to flow several weeks before the “Hagim” (celebrations.) On the streets, shopping malls and stores, the anticipation was evident. I noticed increased traffic, more merchandise, clients, food, baking, blessings and cheers.

At the Ulpan our teacher discussed the Holidays with the students, and I was a bit shocked to discover that many of my Russian classmates did not know the basics. To make sense of this, I thought that perhaps the previous generation of Russian Jews were not allowed to practice their religion and as a consequence their descendants got the matza ball soup very diluted, or no matza balls in the soup at all. I then learned that many of my classmates were not brought up Jewish, and their Aliyah was granted on one basis only: having Jewish ancestry, period.  But, how come? Doesn’t Jewish law dictate that the womb determines eligibility to be considered a Jew? When I asked a reliable source, I heard a marvellous explanation that gave me the shivers.  The Nazis exterminated anyone whose ancestry was remotely Jewish, even back generations. Israel’s Aliyah law took this very seriously, and applied the same selection, except for claiming life. Unlike religious law, Aliyah selection states:  If a Jew was chosen to be killed for his remote Jewish ancestry, then he/she then shall also be chosen to live in Israel and become an integral part of the Jewish Peoplehood!  This realization threw me into a WOW state of admiration.

Ulpan Achva Class Aleph, Rishon Letzion, Rosh Hashana 2016

I spent the eve of Rosh Hashana at Leah, one of Yaffa’s sisters. She hosted approximately 20+ family members, the table was very festive, the food was plentiful, but I confess that I missed being home with my own. I noticed that following the blessings for the bread and the wine there was nothing more to indicate that it was Rosh Hashana. People just delved into the food like wolves, without any order, pacing or sharing. I ate at my pace, but remained hungry for more meaning for the holiday, and it did not come. It was obvious to me that the focus was the food, perhaps the gathering, but certainly not the holiday and its significance.

Rosh Hashana's Tables at Leah

The first day of Rosh Hashana was interesting. I stayed over at Yaffa so that in the morning I would be able to walk to a service near her home. Weeks earlier, I had established a connection with Rabbi Tamara Shifrin, who leads the Reform Congregation Ahavat Olam in Rishon Letzion. While I enjoyed the gender equality, simplicity and intimacy of the service, I missed my family, my seat at Temple Sholom, the tunes, the sermon, and the congregation. The service was nice, but not special, as I expected. I was discouraged that the Rabba did not acknowledge me or made an attempt to introduce me to the group. I thought it a contradiction that in Israel the holidays felt watered down, while we Jews in the Diaspora really take the time to acknowledge the rituals and symbols. When I returned home to Yaffa, I shared with her my disappointment. She made me aware that it was a bad idea to have expectations and make comparisons between two cultures/countries.  While I agreed with her, my feelings prevailed. 


As to the rest of the day, Yaffa’s family organized a BBQ at the Beach. Can you imagine?  A BBQ on Rosh Hashana? You have to remember, it was still summer in Israel even though we were in October. The plan was to gather at the beach in the early afternoon, but the actual meeting did not take place until 9:00 pm.  By then, I was tired, starved and confused. Yaffa and I made our way down to the beach in Rishon Letzion around 5pm, and my fatigue melted away when I found myself in front of the ocean, then the sunset, and took in the experience of seeing countless families gathered around picnic tables sharing a meal. I thought this was a very unique way to celebrate the Day of Rosh Hashana. Only in Israel!

BBQ Night at Rishon Letzion Beachfront

Rosh Hashana Sunset, October 4, 2016

On Yom Kippur

If you think that Rosh Hashana was interesting, wait and see what happened to me, rather, what I made happen to me on Yom Kippur.

Having learned my lesson on Rosh Hashana, I decided to seek out a more meaningful experience in Israel on Yom Kippur. I was clear. I wanted a proper service, a congregation, a day of fasting, and the spirit of the holiest day of the Jewish calendar. I certainly did not want to end up in someone’s home waiting for break-the-fast, or in an orthodox service where women “pray/talk” isolated from the service, the Bimah (sanctuary), the Torah, the prayers, no way!  In short, I needed to find a Reform Congregation. Not everyone knows that the Reform Movement is the largest Jewish religious movement in North America, yet in Israel it is still quite small. The reason is obvious. Orthodoxy does not “yet” recognize any expression of Judaism that is not orthodox. I am grateful that there is, in fact, a Reform Movement in Israel, one that is gaining momentum as Israeli Jews move from secularism to religious involvement and a return to the marvellous traditions of the Jewish heritage. 

When I located Bet Daniel, the Reform Congregation at the center of TA, I inquired about services and possible accommodation nearby given my lack of transportation. In Israel, during Shabbat and Jewish holidays public transportation is non-existent. The staff informed me that they did not have an option for me, but recommended that I attend services at their sister congregation in Yafo, given that services are held at their own Ruth Daniel Residence where I could stay overnight.  After I contacted Rabbi Mira Raz of Kehilat Daniel in Yafo, she not only invited me to services, but also assisted me to book a room at Ruth Daniel for a reduced fee.  I was thrilled to have everything worked out for myself. I was proud of my sense of independence and initiative, but I made a major mistake. I did not bother to check the bus schedule as I assumed that buses would run until 3pm, as they normally do on Shabbat. Being the clean freak that I am, I decided to clean my place in the morning. After all, it was Yom Kippur and I must have believed in my subconscious that G-d would punish me if I left my home beyond spotless on that holy day. You can now anticipate what is coming.  I left the home at 2:30 pm to catch the train. On my short walk to the train station I had a funny feeling that something was wrong. The streets were totally deserted, and I saw no buses running. As I approached the train station, the reality hit me like a rock. The train station was closed. It had been closed for over one hour. But what was I thinking!  It was Yom Kippur in Israel!!! I got angry with myself for being so stupid. After my self-condemnation reached a dead end, I Sat on a bench to think my next move. Go home? Get a taxi? What would I eat? How would I pray? Would I fast alone in my apartment? Would Bet Daniel refund me the money? As the thoughts swarmed my head, I decided to call a taxi. I tried several companies. Some did not answer and two did, yet the attendant laughed at my request for a pickup in Be’er Yaacob: “Madam, did you know that it is Yom Kippur today?”  As I was calling, a call came into me. It was a taxi driver that caught the search nearby.  He offered to pick me up within 20 minutes and take me to my destination in TA. I hesitated. He said he would charge me 200 NIS = $68 Canadian. I said I would call him back, while I gave myself a few extra beatings.  When he called back, I said yes. I figured that this was a special time, and spending Yom Kippur in my basement was not an option. I then made my way to Tel Aviv, in angst of the expense, but also in anticipation of my experiencing Yom Kippur in a Reform Congregation.  I got to the Ruth Daniel Residence on Jerusalem Street in Yafo. The building is located inside a circular plaza, not to be missed. I saw that the area was busy with lots of Israeli Arabs and became a bit uneasy. When I checked in, the receptionist laughed when I asked if the restaurant was open. It was almost 4:00pm.  He said, “Leave your luggage here, and run to the corner to get some food.” How was I to start a 24-hour fast without a proper meal?  While I walked the busy street, I realized that I was amongst Arabs. I took a deep breath and prayed.  All the small restaurants were closed.  Finally I saw a lady holding a glass labeled “Aroma,” the chain coffee shop. She gave me instructions to get there. As I got into the café, they too were closing. The attendant, also an Arab, announced that the kitchen was closed. I begged him to get me a salad or a sandwich, but he said there was none. This was my fate. My meal before the fast consisted in a café latte, and two pieces of baking. I feared I would starve or faint, but I didn’t.

Ruth Daniel Residence, Yafo

The entire ordeal faded away as I experienced a welcoming environment, an intimate congregation, and a welcoming rabbi.  That night I attended Kol Nidrei services and slept like a baby in the comfortable and spacious suite. I spent the next day in synagogue, wearing the new Tallit I had bought in Tzfat when Nadia visited, and got a few compliments, even from the Rabbi. When I told her it was my first Tallit and my first time wearing it, she offered me an Aliyah to the Torah, an honor that hit a cord in my heart.  During the afternoon break I walked to the Yafo Port. I watched non-Jewish people bathing, eating, playing, while I was fasting. The Yafo shoreline, the breeze and the horizon fed me from within, with mouthfuls of hope and gratitude. I was far from my daughters, but they were with me all along.

I was so thrilled with my Yom Kippur experience, that I posted this message in the Beit Daniel Facebook Page:

"This Yom Kippur, my first ever in the Land of Israel, was particularly meaningful. I gave myself a real treat by reserving a room at the Ruth Daniel Residence, all in order to attend services at the Kehilat Daniel in Yafo, a congregation I did not know much about. Rabbi Mira Ras welcomed me open-heartedly and I was able to feel connected in prayer to my Israeli bretheren, something that cannot be said when I attended services in non-egalitarian synagogues.  While the prayerbook did not offer English translation, my familiarity with the Reform Sidur allowed me to understand, follow and take part in the flow of the solemn Yom Kippur service.  I loved the voice of the cantor, Shimon Smith, who led the service with great gusto, energy and confidence.While some of the tunes were new to me, Shimon gave them wings with  beautiful harmonizations.  I am grateful to the Rabbi Ras, Shimon Smith, and all the congregants for a memorable Yom Kippur in the land of my dreams."

When Yom Kippur was over I had an unexpected surprise. As I greeted a couple behind me, I learned they were from South Africa. We started talking and connecting, and at the end of our chat I got invited to break the Fast in their upscale apartment in Yafo.  Here is the thing, had I been in Vancouver chances are I would have broken the fast in the home of my South African friends. Here I was, in Yafo, Tel Aviv, in the company of South African brethren, eating Babka.

I had no regrets.

On Sucot

A few days after Yom Kippur, the Jewish calendar kicked in the Festival of Sucot that lasts eight days. During the holiday, I experienced several meals in the Suca, an evening of celebration organized by the City of Rishon Letzion, featuring music, family entertainment, vendors and food booths.

Sucot Festival Night at Rishon Letzion City Square

I was  pleasantly surprised to receive a call from Igal, of my Spanish students inviting me to his Moshab to celebrate Sucot in the Suca that he himself built.  He said that he wanted me to be his "Ushpitzin" (Suca guest.) Although I was thrilled with his invitation, I was unable to attend given my lack of public transportation during holiday closures.  I am aware that Igal works with the Israeli Government in matters of national security.  Being fluent in Arabic, I suspect his work his highly classified.  Wow!  Here is the photo of his Suca that he shared with me.

Suca at My Student's Moshab

On the Sucot weekend I joined Yaffa’s family on a picnic at a park in Nes Tziona, a nearby city.  Her family members brought many pieces of meat for the BBQ and the women brought salads.  The food was plentiful and shared very informally.  During this picnic some of Yaffa’s nieces and nephews, ranging from age 7 to 22 started to connect with me and I with them. This made me feel very happy.

During the Festival I decided to travel on my own to Jerusalem to visit The Kotel (The Wailing Wall).  I had not stepped foot there since my arrival, and felt that my visit was long overdue.  It is hard to describe what I felt as I approached the Kotel, a placed swamped with people from all over the world.  The day before the news reported that thousands of observant worshipers made their way to the Holy Site to observe a Sucot tradition, and that it was near to impossible to approach the wall. I was grateful that the day of my visit I could circulate and with persistence I made may way through the curtain of women bodies until I reached the wall and was able to lean on it for about twenty minutes.  My journey is pretty well illustrated below.  

There were several young volunteers from all over the world inviting visitors to make the blessings over the Lulav and Etrog.  I loved being able to do it in such a holy site.  

This weekend ended up being an adventure. Taking advantage of my trip to Jerusalem, I made contact with a friend I met during a Nefesh b’Nefesh tour. She and her husband treated me for lunch, and even invited me to spend the night with them, as they wanted me to take part in a tour the next day.  

Rachel, her husband Sasson and I in downtown Jerusalem

From Jerusalem, I contacted a friend who lives in Netanya, and she too invited me to come over.  I spent the next night at her religious home.  She is a relative of a close friend of mine in Vancouver, also from Mexico, a warm, funny and spontaneous Judeo-Mexican.  Her three daughters were sweet as honey and I enjoyed meeting the family.

Yael Levy and Violeta

Sharon Levi-Frid and Violeta

I also shared a Succot brunch in the company of my Israeli family: Miriam, Avi, Elior, Eyal, Elinor and Kids. 

Brunch in Suca with Albachari's

What a busy and meaningful month of October this was. Too many holidays, too much eating and drinking, not much work done, and many opportunities to experience Israel at the holiest time of year.

The end.