Visit to Mystic Tzfat (June 28 - July 3)

Facebook Leads Me to Safed (Tzfat) Through an Angel 

While Facebook is not high on my list for making or counting friends, its networking power gave me an unexpected gift allowing me to reconnect with a distant peer, Cory Zacharias, a vibrant American redhead whom I befriended in Mexico during my teens and lost touch over the years. Upon my arrival in Israel, Cory messaged me to congratulate me for making Aliyah, and suggested that I consider attending a Kabbalah Seminar in Tzfat, given that her university professor, Daniel Matt, a renowned Kabbalah expert was the scholar in residence. She said that knowing me (the “Me” she remembered several decades ago), I would love it. Cory was right. I did not hesitate to inquire, and quickly engaged in the process of registering. What marvellous parallel, I thought, to visit Tzfat, the ancient city of I had dreamt of seeing with my own eyes, as well as study with Daniel Matt, a person I learned is one of the world’s leading authorities on Kabbalah, who has published over a dozen books, and recently completed an 18-year project of translating and annotating the Zohar into English, (The Zohar Pritzker Edition.) As a side note, Jewish leaders today consider his translation a monumental contribution to the history of Jewish thought.

The seminar, titled “The Divine Romance in the Zohar” organized by the International Center of Kabbalah in Tzfat, took place at the Rimonim Hotel over two days, June 29-30, and left the 30 participants in a state of awe and wonder. During the intense class I shifted from feeling inquisitive to overwhelmed, understanding to confused and oblivious to enlightened. I cherish the fact that in the vast material we covered I was able to mine a few jewels of meaning that I hope to wear on my sleeve to elevate myself spiritually and emotionally.

Violeta and John Brozac

One of the highlights of the seminar was running into a man from Vancouver, by the name of John Brozac, with whom I studied Mussar at the Schara Tzedeck synagogue and our teacher was Alan Morinis.  John did not recognize me, but certainly showed excitement when I disclosed myself.  Can you imagine, two people from Vancouver, Canada, meeting in Tzfat, at the same seminar, in the same room, with the same teacher?  John is an intelligent participant and the two of us exchanged looks several times during the class given the connection between Mussar and Kabbalah. That was a real treat. In the class I also met other lovely individuals with whom I shared lunch and conversation, but we did not have the time to develop a deeper connection as most participants left after the seminar, with the exception of Shelley, an American woman who made Aliyah four years ago and is highly intelligent and motivated.

Violeta and Daniel Matt

Eyal Reiss, Director of the International Kabbalah Center in Tzfat

My accommodation at Laurie Rappeport’s guesthouse was basic: one and a half room and a tiny washroom, but the place had lots of character. Laurie, also an American, moved to Tzfat decades ago and decided to build a home in the high place. She was truly supportive and welcoming, for which I am grateful. 

Given that my accommodation was reasonable, I decided to spend Shabbat in Tzfat, a decision I did not regret. Shelley also decided to extend her stay, so I did not hesitate to share my accommodation with her place the last two nights of our stay.

Sunset before Shabbat

On Friday afternoon I was able to experience the city falling asleep in spiritual light at sundown, and was serendipitously invited to a Shabbat dinner, once again, thanks to the 
powers of Facebook.  After I posted a few photographs of Tzfat, I received a message from Rabbi Levy Varnai, whose wife Ricky’s parents live in Tzfat.  Her parents, Rabbi Shaul and Chaya Bracha Leiter, originally from the US, have lived in Tzfat over decades, and are icons in the religious community of the Institute Ascent. Not only did Rebbetzin Haya Bracha opened her home for me and another ten visitors, serving us a spread of colourful and delicious food, but her husband Rabbi Shaul gave each guest an opportunity to share, discuss and partake in interesting conversation. 

Before dinner Laurie Rappeport, my landlady, took my roommate and I to a Charlebach-style Friday night service on the rooftop of a spiral building, like a tower.  The service was attended by at least 100 people and the singing was inspirational as the combined voices and tunes of Shabbat dissipated into the horizon.  Chanting and dancing was gender segregated, and I was amazed to see many young and beautiful girls engaging in the mitzvah of welcoming the Shabbat with such joy and devotion.  While the segregation was not of my liking, it was nonetheless a unique experience.

On Saturday morning I walked up the hill to get to a Shabbat morning service recommended to my by Haya Bracha, in the Abuchav Synagogue. I wish I could take photographs of this beautiful synagogue that gleaned a taste of Medieval Spain, but was unable to do so as it was Shabbat. As I entered the sanctuary, I had little time to admire it, as I was quickly directed to the floor above where dozens of observant women sat quietly following their prayerbooks. I tried my best to follow the service, but was deprived of the view at the Bima, despite my effort to peak through the balcony wall and the arched pillar before me.  I did however hear the Spanish-sounding Hebrew accent and enjoyed the familiarity with most of the prayers that brought me back into my childhood memories attending the Temple Rabbi Yehuda Halevi in Mexico, where I shared many meaningful memories of Jewish rituals in the presence of my maternal family.

Night Tour to Amuca Cemetery to Visit the Tomb of Rabbi Yonathan ben Uziel

Did you know that Rabbi Uziel’s gravesite at Amuca is a compelling pilgrimage site for singles today who pray that, through his intervention in the heavens, they will meet their soulmate?

According to Jewish texts, Rabbi Yonatan Ben Uziel was the most brilliant disciple of the famous Rabbi Shimon Bar Yohai, who in turn as the most brilliant disciple of Rabbi Akiva.  I note that Rabbi Shimon Bar Yohai has been attributed with the authorship of the Zohar, the chief work of Kabbalah.

Tomb of Rabbi Yonathan ben Uziel z'l

Rabbi Ben Uziel’s dedication to Torah study was unprecedented to the extent that he never married. He died young, and in the last years of his life he regretted his solitude. After his death, his successors decided to honor his life by means of passing on his blessing to those who wished to find a mate. Since then, thousands of seekers visit Rabbi Uziel’s tomb in Amuca to receive his blessing.  It is said that those who receive his blessing find their soulmates within one year. Stories abound regarding individuals who pray at Amuca seeking a match. A number of stories revolve around people who intentionally “forgot” their “siddur” (prayer book) with their name and contact details. The siddur was picked up and contact was initiated with a possible match. Other singles who had searched for their match for many years describe miraculously meeting someone very soon after their visit to Amuca and consider Yonathan ben Uziel to be their Shadchan (matchmaker.)

The field grip to Amuca complemented the Kabbalah curriculum and allowed me to experience the mystical realm in Tzfat first hand.  My prayers at this holy site were not for me, but for my daughters. May they find their soulmate, Amen.

The Holy City of Tzfat

I have left my description of Tzfat for last, given my difficulty trying to describe her. It is no wonder that her name is written in so many different ways, which in itself baffles any visitor to its hills and tunnels:

Safed, Sefad, Safad, Safat, Safas, Tsfat, Tsefat, Tzfat, Tzefat, Tzfas, Tzefas, Zefat, Zfat, Zfas, Zefad, etc...

Here is a little history:

The Spanish Inquisition resulted in the expulsion of over 100,000 Jews from Spain. These Jews were dispersed throughout the world. Among the fleeing Jews were some of the greatest rabbinical and Kabbalistic scholars of the Middle Ages who decided to move to the Land of Israel. Kabbalah scholars were drawn to Tzfat because of its proximity to Mt. Meron, the burial place of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai. R' Bar Yochai is believed to have learned the secrets of Kabbalah while hiding near Tzfat (in Peki'in) from the Romans. It is said that God appeared to R' Bar Yochai through divine inspiration, imparting the secrets of the Kabbalah. When the Roman decree against him was lifted, R' Bar Yochai left his hiding place and began to travel through the area, teaching what he had received (To Receive is the Hebrew word "L'Kabel", which is the root of the word "Kabbalah".) Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai is also believed by religious Jews to have been the author of the Book of Zohar, the basis of Kabbalah.

It was during the 15th and 16th centuries that Tzfat became recognized as one of the four holy cities of Israel, the "City of Kabbalah". (The others being Jerusalem as the home of the Temple, Tiberias as the city where the Mishna was compiled, and Hebron as the home of the Cave of Machpelah, resting place of the matriarchs and patriarchs). 

http://www.safed-home.com/safed-history.html

In my eyes, the city of Tzfat is basically a winding maze of tapered alleys, connected through assymetric stairwells that lead to narrow passages, unexpected bends and unforeseen courtyards. The stone paved streets in gold tones stretch into the city’s walls, like a mantle of light. From the windows hang flowery and aromatic arrangements, and the blue doors display historic plaques. The architectural design, arched gates, and ironwork windows and doors, speak loudly of the Medieval Spain brought into Tzfat by the Sepharadic sages that brought with them their unique Jewish culture, flavour and beauty.

Personally, I love the city in all its beauty and complexity. Light irradiates and shade filters through the nooks and wall cracks like a beam of hope. It seemed to me that the duality of which the Zohar speaks so loudly can be seen, felt and heard in Tzfat. Her Artist's Quarter is nothing but a center of culture, history, art, religion, and beauty. As in the laws of the universe, duality equals balance – the old and the new, the sacred and the mundane, the physical and the spiritual. It all comes together in an enticing and sensual experience, much like a romance with the Zohar.

Gemmatria - the science of decoding Hebrew letters and their meaning

Viewpoint from Tzfat, the High Place, Crib of Kabbalah Wisdom and Secrets

Purification Experience

The Jewish ritual of purification for women is well and alive in the Jewish world, especially in the more observant communities, and it is certainly present in the holy city of Tzfat. While observant practice focuses on immersion for married women after their menstrual cycle, in the past several decades conservative and reform communities have given the immersion waters new spiritual meaning with the purpose to celebrate, uplift, heal and cleanse/renew the souls of women. Reasons range from celebrating a milestone, a name or career change, recovering from a divorce, healing emotionally or physically, or simply immersing for the sake of renewal and purification from anything that no longer serves or benefits a person.

Before leaving Vancouver I tried to immerse in the community Mikveh to mark two important moving forward life changes; the first, reclaiming my maternal family name Esquinazi;  the second, making Aliyah to Israel. Because I was unable to fit this into my schedule, I seized the opportunity to make this happen during in stay in Tzfat, especially when I discovered that Nathalie Reiss, the wife of the Kabbalah Center Director, Eyal Reiss, who is from Venezuela, assists women through this ritual. In short, the very last day of my stay in Tzfat Nathalie picked me up and together with her husband Eyal they drove me to a nearby hill in nature where I immersed seven times in a rectangular pool of rainwater that is used for immersion by the non-orthodox community, precisely aimed to cleanse, purify and renew, in this case me!  Before the immersion Nathalie offered me a very personal and meaningful reflection on the value, strength, depth and purpose of women, and the challenges we face day to day.  She emphasized our urgency to let go of the fears and insecurities that keep us bound, reclaim our G-d given power, and with self-acceptance and love shed our light unto others. I believe that Nathalie and I speak the same verbal and emotional language and our natural bond felt as fluid as water itself. The few minutes we spent together were truly  special to me, she and I, speaking from the heart, two friends, two mothers, two Jewish women, two hearts and two minds, and one language bonding us together at the same time and place.

Nathalie Reiss

Rainfall basin for immersion aimed at purification and renewal

Return to Jerusalem

My return to Jerusalem was most enjoyable, sweetened by the company of three individuals:  John, my Vancouver friend, also the driver of a rental car, Shelley, my roommate, and Danny Mate, the teacher, translator and friend.  During the drive the conversation was engaging, and the views of the the Judea mountains wrapping the Sea of Galilee gave pleasure to all of my senses.

I arrived to my home in Yehud at 10:30pm after boarding several buses dragging my luggage. I was very happy to come home and felt boundless gratitude for a time well spent.